Long before Topshop and the advent of Kate Moss, Burberry was the embodiment of British fashion. London may never belong to the exclusive triumvirate of Milan, Paris, and New York, but the attention it receives is due first and foremost to this established brand. And along with the venerated label comes a crop of young, hip designers (Jaeger London, Marios Schwab, Christopher Kane) that only add to its burgeoning sartorial status. Yet amidst emerging talents, CFDA-fund winners, and the latest "it" couturier, Christopher Bailey remains the paragon of English chic. Season after season, his clothes reflect a signature sense of style without consigning themselves to repetition. Bailey updates traditional staples with modern nuances to render them classic yet contemporary. This spring, innovative details like inset zippers on the backs of dresses and motocross stitching on the sleeves of jackets gave off a distinctly biker-chic vibe. Matte panels added a rock n' roll flair to black leather leggings, which figured prominently into the collection. Last season's rugged combats had morphed into clean, formfitting ankle boots in patent crocodile. Its glossy, futuristic appeal was punctuated by a leg-elongating deep V in the front. And what would Burberry be without its defining characteristic - the trench? The label's trademark coat appeared in innumerable forms - cropped, zippered, buttoned, studded, and even dyed a hue of vivid green. It proved its versatility over everything from silk shifts to seamed skinnies. Fabrics varied from cotton to canvas to patent leather and even metallic python. Aside from outerwear, Bailey resurrected several customer favorites, including jewel-toned cocktail dresses, ruffled pastel minis, and double-buckled belts (this time in electric colors). Midway through the presentation, however, he combined sleek edginess with full-on glamour that manifested itself in spiky pants, Roberto Cavalli-esque animal print, and heavy-metal hardware. Silver trousers, sinuous chiffon, and studded leather pulsed with sex appeal. Yet if this latter portion was unrestrained, it hardly read cheap. Full-sleeved jackets balanced shorter hemlines, while sateen leggings complemented bare tops. In a season of bland "American sportswear," it was a risky move, but Bailey executed it with panache. It had all the elements of a fantastic Burberry collection - class, currency, and charisma.
all photos from nymag.com