"Downtown polish" seems like an oxymoron. But at Phillip Lim, these two elements combined in elegant urban cool. Like many of his contemporaries, last season's tough, eclectic girl had grown up - but this time, she didn't lose her identity. Ever the nonconformist, Lim tweaked classic pieces in unconventional ways. Yes, there were refined trousers, but in translucent metallic print. A navy trench exhibited a swath of polka-dot organza on its front. A slim white skirt and camel sweater sported an apron. Even the shoes were offbeat; they appeared to be pumps from the side, but were bound by only a slim strap over the toe. Despite their ubiquity, Lim was not above playing with sheers, applying them to trench coats, oxford shirts, and the aforementioned pants. They also served to build interesting layers; a plunging lace bodice over a translucent, sleeveless turtleneck and sequined bandeau was texturally complex without being bulky. Paired with a full length black skirt, it was intriguingly intricate yet not overwhelming. Other such composite ensembles met with similar success. Like Miuccia Prada before him, Lim also ressurected the apron skirt - this time cropped and rendered in delicate black lace rather than crude burlap. However, the collection was hardly girly; Lim's inner tomboy manifested itself in slouchy leather shorts, sharp-shoulder velvet blazers, and oversized vests. There was a subtle element of undoneness - perhaps in the wispy hair, simple makeup, and earthtone palette - that imbued the presentation with a casual ease. Yet Lim's true talent lies in his originality; although he nailed the trends, he added his own unique flourish.

all photos from nymag.com