Grunge and Glam at Vera Wang

Friday, February 18, 2011

If there's anyone who can take chiffon and tulle and make it look downright cool, it's Vera Wang. Since the opening of her first boutique at the Carlyle Hotel, the New York-based designer has carved out a niche of artsy, beautiful clothes - think Alberta Ferretti, but with a serious edge. The past few seasons, "It" names like Proenza Schouler and Alexander Wang have marketed downtown grunge with their so-ugly-it's-pretty aesthetic. But the female Wang proves that you don't have to wear a harness bra, bulky shorts, or ripped tees to look "artfully undone." The combination of drop-waisted dresses, tufted fur chubbies, and peep-toe ankle boots produced a polished eclecticism, while diaphanous gowns and elbow-length leather gloves conveyed a romantic, destroyed glamour. Unconventional pairings added a bit of rebel-chic attitude: The relaxed/tailored fit of a skirt-pant duo rendered it surprisingly wearable, and a cable knit sweater over a sheer pleated skirt provided the perfect juxtaposition. Wang possesses an acute sensitivity to the most subtle nuances of silhouette, fabric, and texture, and without this delicacy of touch, the endeavor might have failed. But she nailed difficult hip ruffles, asymmetrical floor-length shirtdresses, and see-through maxi gowns without a single stumble. It's precisely this finesse that sets her apart from her contemporaries and makes her such a valuable player on the runway circuit.

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