Beatnik Winter

Wednesday, February 23, 2011

Matthew Williamson's boho urbanite, for all her summery inclinations, knows a thing or two about bundling up when the weather turns cold. This season, she dons beatnik patchwork quilts sewn into structured coats and asymmetrical kilts. Free-spirited, yes, but not as flower-child as it might sound. Sleek leather trimmings, panelled motocross skinnies, and tufts of degrade fur upped the grunge quotient. Williamson transformed classically polished separates into innovative but wearable pieces with a few genius tweaks. Classically tailored blazers and slouchy trousers, when dyed a traffic-cone orange, became quirky focal points in otherwise neutral ensembles. Even the prim Oxford turned playful; while it oozed sex appeal in sheer black, it was infinitesimally cool in a relaxed silhouette and shimmering coral. There were, of course, plenty of Williamson's signatures. His fabulous fringe-and-sequin concoctions prove that no other designer can blend hippie and metropolitan with such stunning results.

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