Due to my bias for Mr. Garavani, I'm not inclined to give Valentino anything less than a stellar review. But Pier Paolo Piccoli and Maria Grazia Chiuri failed to step up to the plate with their latest undertaking. It's not due to any lack of talent on behalf of the design duo; they showcased their talents well enough in the past few seasons, steering the venerated brand in a fresh direction without straying too far from the house's roots. This spring, like so many of their contemporaries, they succumbed to the allure of subdued sophistication. Though quiet elegance may not seem like such a bad alternative, it lacked the oomph that characterized previous exhibitions. The entire collection was just too ... fleshy. Sheer, skintone layers made it difficult to tell where the models began and the dresses ended. Even the few pinks and corals that appeared bright in comparison to their neutral counterparts looked as if they had faded after one too many washes. Even Valentino's forte, red carpet wear, suffered an unfortunate lack of inspiration. Schoolgirl nightgowns with ruffled plackets and high collars replaced the glamorous numbers of yesteryear. Sculptural lace, though pretty, was too distinctly Prada. That being said, this was hardly the worst on the runway circuit; in fact, it fared better than most. Then again, you tend to expect something exceptional from Valentino. There were highlights in the form of ruffled sheaths and nude shifts with black chiffon overlay, but too much of the presentation played it safe. At the same time, it's possible to see how a more conservative audience could find this collection appealing. It was tasteful and understated, yet had just enough unexpected elements to impart it with a distinctly couture flair. Even unconventional details, however, demonstrated a characteristic restraint. In a sense, it was too refined, and that's what rendered it somewhat lifeless.