In a season where designers are returning to their roots, Hermès embraced the equestrian. The collection, which marked Gaultier's last term at the fore of the French fashion house, resurrected the brand's heritage in full force. Leather factored predominantly into the equation; skintight pants, crisp blazers, and functional pouches were all constructed from the luxury label's signature material. At its core, the silhouette was attenuated; basques and belts accentuated the waist, while panelled leggings hugged the hips. However, loose cardigans and slouchy shorts added an easy daytime appeal. Despite its emphasis on the equestrienne, the clothes would have worked well in almost any clime. Tailored pantsuits and pencil skirts were suavely urbane, while fringed ponchos and rugged boots were fit for the English countryside. Sharp tuxedos offered a mysterious androgyny when paired with broad-brimmed top hats that obscured their wearer's face. Thin harnesses worn beneath as well as on top of shirts crisscrossed the torso, sometimes winding around the models' necks. The collection, however, centered too closely on one theme. To his credit, Gaultier stayed true to Hermès' trademark style - which is simplistic (read: boring) by definition. Maybe I just don't get Hermès' brand of chic, but it was devoid of creativity and joie de vivre. If not yawn-inducing, it certainly wasn't scintillating.

all photos from style.com